That would be Fergus Henderson’s place, St. John, located in what was once a smokehouse in the not yet absolutely completely fashionable Smithfield Market neighborhood. The place has been creating meals out of portions of the pig that even the Chinese discard.
But lo and behold, when Restaurant Magazine, an important European restaurant industry publication, published its list of the 50 best restaurants in the world – there it was, way up there in 16th place. Not only that, it has also been named most improved restaurant on the list.
So if you’re London-bound you may want to try it. But first prepare yourself for a menu that highlights both roasted bone marrow and squirrel with offal on toast. I don’t know about this. I always eat my squirrel with offal on pita bread.