Worldwide Restaurant Recommendations
from our Little Black Book

Note: Even the hottest new restaurant can burn out and close after a year or two. We urge you to have your hotel concierge make reservations on your behalf for any of the restaurants

listed below. Our most recent recommendations are added at the end of each destination.

Amsterdam

The Dutch now own more of the United States than the Japanese. The Netherlands is quietly thriving, with one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. So dinner checks can be dear. But the Dutch do not believe in big lunches, so most of the really pricey places open only for dinner. If you want to “go Dutch” try a nice bowl of soup with bread or try a sandwich from one of the small Brugge’ stands scattered throughout the city . . . . . Near the Royal Palace, the terminally hip are enjoying the Supper Club, a restaurant with no tables. Ring the bell and you are ushered upstairs where giant cushioned banquettes line the walls. There is an open kitchen and entertainment each evening.

Anguilla

When Churchill and Turen staff are asked “where should I go in the Caribbean”, Anguilla is usually our first choice. The Cap Juluca Resort has just re-opened with a wonderful new restaurant called Kemia. The forty or so entrees are serves in smaller portions a la tapas. Chef Payson Dennis has quite a following among the Hollywood Glitteri, but his dishes are available to all. Most entrees are under $20 but in all other respects, Anguilla is not inexpensive.

Athens

Famed Paris chef Guy Martin of Le Grand Vefour, recently opened a Franco-Grecian restaurant he calls Beau Brummel in the upscale Kifissia quarter. The nicely renovated 19th century house is now home to the best food in Athens. The menu has a fair number of absolute winners, chief among them the lamb filet with olive puree and the foie gras terrine with sweet figs. For dessert don’t miss the lemon and chocolate tartlets. . . . . . . We like Vlassis at Paster 8, Platia Mavilli, near the American embassy. It’s loud, but this is the place to sample Greek soul food from the islands like pastitsio(minced lamb and macaroni) or octopus stifado. For something simple, order the oven-baked lamb……….Bajazzo (01/921-3013) is the place to splurge in Athens. The dishes and the patrons are beautiful as is the beef fillet layered with foie gras and topped with a delicate cognac and cream sauce. …….Strophi is one of our favorites, not far from the Plaka district and behind the Acropolis. Walk upstairs, several flights, and you come out on a rooftop. You have to know where you’re going. This restaurant is casual and serves all the traditional Greek favorites. But there is something about the moonlight on this roof and then, when you least expect it, the Acropolis Light show begins and the best known building on earth is bathed in shades of pink and blue. This is the perfect casual dinner spot…….Young Aphrodites with Gucci bags congregate upstairs at Interni, Athens hot, new Northern Italian dining spot featuring Japanese/Italian décor. The daily specials are the way to go.

Bahamas

Guests at the mammoth Atlantis on Paradise Island are often unaware that Christian Liaigre’s new $100 million makeover at the nearby Ocean Club includes Dune, operated by now legendary Manhattan chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. This may be the best restaurant in the Caribbean, it is certainly the best in the Bahamas. The local seafood is infused with a myriad of Asian touches. Don’t leave without trying the raspberry sorbet with chili peppers. Dinner here is surprisingly affordable. A Churchill and Turen Top Recommendation.

Barcelona

We like Botafumeiro on Gracia, which features the city’s very best seafood. Ask for “Mariscos Botafumeiro”, a selection of local shellfish. Much of the fish here is flown in daily from Galicia. …………..If you don’t mind the somewhat blue collar, artsy atmosphere, try Garduna in Boqueria, the covered food market. Wonderful seafood combination dishes at really reasonable prices. . . . . . . .Back on Passeig de Gracia, Barcelona’s Michigan Avenue, our first choice for dining is Tenorio. Don’t be put off by the high tech interior, this is classical Barcelona cuisine with pan con tomate waiting at every table. The tapas here are excellent – be sure to try the paella valenciana. . . . . . . . Can Costa has been in business since the second world war and still serves some of the city’s best seafood including classic baby squid. . . . . . . . La Dama is one of Barcelona’s fancier outposts of fine food and aficianados swear by the roast fillet of goat. . . . . . .. . . Beltxenea was once an elegant apartment building. Now, it serves really exquisite versions of Basque cooking. . . . . . . . If you only have a few nights in Barcelona, consider Los Caracoles near the Place Reial, They’ve been serving spit-roasted chicken here since 1835. Do try the snails. . . . . . . A bit off the tourist track is 7 Portes, which serves a nice variety of colorful paellas including versions featuring sardines or rabbit. It is a classic, local restaurant and has been around since 1836.

Beijing

Who would have imagined it just ten years ago; a memorable casserole of escargot in a delicate walnut sauce or our favorite, peppery king crab cooked with spiced tomatoes. This is the scene at La Scene in the embassy district. And you won’t believe the wine cellar.

Buenos Aires

The place to go in the heart of the trendy Barrio Norte is Restaurante Ovieto. Try the local steak or lamb from the Patagonian pampas but do finish with the thin crepes in sweet cream. The excellent wine cellar is just icing on the dulce.

Dublin

Clearly Dublin’s most acclaimed restaurant, Patrick Guilbaud's quarters on the ground floor of the Hotel Merrion features a Gallic twist on local specialties such as prawns from Dublin Bay and tender Bantry Bay scallops. To miss dining here is to miss the reason that Ireland now has cooking schools……O’Connells, on Merrion Road, is a rather modern, sleek setting for cooking that is rooted in the slow food movement. Salmon is “hot smoked” on premises, the breads are home-baked wonders, and the cheeses come from some of the country’s best artisan cheesemakers. Located in the Ballsbridge section of town.

Florence

We have a number of favorites in this wonderful restaurant city. At the end of the nineteenth century Buca San Gionavvi was a secret meeting place for the initiation of the Rosacroce masons. Many important people descended the steps of the "Buca", once the sacristy of the Battistero, to enjoy the Florentine cuisine. The bachelor party of the Prince of Bulgaria in the thirties and in later years the visit of President John Kennedy are still remembered …….Osteria # 1 is located in the true historical heart of Florence not far from the high-end shopping street, Via Tournabouni.. This is our absolute favorite Trattoria for authentic Tuscan cuisine. Johnnie, the owner, has written a wonderful cookbook in English, we urge you to purchase a copy as it is unavailable in the States. The Osso Buco and the Grandmother’s Cake for dessert are standouts. If spinach crepes are on the menu, do order them. This is a wonderful place for an unpretentious dinner of quality. . . . . . . . “I tre Merli” is located in one of the ancient areas of Florence, close to the famous shopping streets Via della Vigna Nuova and Via Tornabuoni. The chef comes from Japan, but he is a specialist in Tuscan cuisine. . . . . . . . . A few steps from medieval Franciscan church of S. Croce, La Baraonda serves homestyle Florentine food with the some sense of whimsy that prompted the choice of its name, which is in Italian for "convivial chaos". There is a handsome marble butcher's counter in the front of the room; three small connecting dining rooms lie beyond. For non-Italian speakers, Duccio, the co-owner with Elena, will expound on the unusual menu. Following old Tuscan traditions, the menu varies according to the season and the service is impeccable. The pasta is excellent and the desserts delicious, all home-made under Elena’s eyes. Duccio serves at the table and with his great love and knowledge of local cooking he will explain the menu. The wine list includes all the best Italian wines. . . . . .The interior at La Congrega has been tastefully restored, with warm and inviting colors prevailing. The furnishings are charming and unusual: wooden tables, old collectibles on the walls, a wooden bar on the right, an upstairs for a privileged place of observation.Tables are not set with a tablecloth but with yellow paper for an informal and friendly touch. The kitchen is open, you notice as soon as you enter, and willingly tied to the recipes of the past; although an attentive modern eye watches over the use of fats and heavier ingredients. The meats are only Tuscan specialties; a lot of space instead is devoted to vegetables, cold cuts and cheeses, all proposed in the most creative way. ………….The trattoria "Mamma Gina", one of the city's renowned typical trattorias, can be found right in the heart of mediaeval Florence, in historic Borgo San Jacopo on the way to the Ponte Vecchio. It is just down the street from the entrance to the Hotel Lungarno. Housed in a 15th century palace, it first opened in the early 1950's when Signora Gina started cooking meals for the workmen dredging sand from the Arno for use in the many building sites involved in repairing the damage left by the last war. We like the friendly waitstaff and the recognizable menu. This is a great choice for a trattoria lunch. But do plan on spending an hour – or two. ……………..Our absolute favorite trattoria in Florence, in fact in all of Italy, is a small, three-bench affair called Osteria della Tre Panche. A short taxi ride from the center of town, this is a contemporary Tuscan secret that is unknown to most of the guidebook writers. Order the beef in a reduced balsamic vinegar glaze and any pasta with truffles. You might run into Italian movie stars or young up and comers from Florence’s thriving arts community. This tiny haunt of true Tuscan cuisine using the finest ingredients will win you over. If they are serving warm, Florentine cheesecake for dessert be sure to order more than one slice.(via Pacinotti 32 055-583724) ………………we also make a brief shopping suggestion? Our favorite clothing outlet in Florence is Anna’s at Piazza Pitti 38-40. Go downstairs and get fitted for the leather jacket or pants of your dreams. Let them know you are friends of ours and you will receive a discount on all purchases. To speak to them in advance call 055 283787.

Galway

The hills of Connemara are home to Rosleague Manor, a Regency home that has a wonderful kitchen specializing in chef/owner Paddy Foyle’s wonderful local seafood.

Hong Kong

Along with Singapore, this may be one of the world’s top three gastronomic capitals. The best restaurants in HK were always in hotels because of the prohibitive cost of real estate. But things are changing and the top newcomers include Alibi, an upstairs restaurant on the edge of Soho run by an Aussie and featuring organically farmed chickens from France for the coq au vin. . . . . . .Aqua looks like a ultra-hip fishbowl and is, again, run by an Aussie, Greg Bunt, with sterling credentials. Don’t miss the Jazz Brunch on weekends. . . . . . For fresh Italian food, with the best possible ingredients, insiders flock to Grissini in the Grand Hyatt. Do the risotto with truffles if it is on the menu.. Purists will love the gnocchi with basil.

Istanbul

The best in Istanbul, at the moment, is Shashibala, in the Laila complex of open-air dining restaurants along the shore of the Bosporus. We urge you to try the roast duck served with apricots, figs, and orange honey. . . . . . . . . Tugra is our favorite Ottoman restaurant, perhaps because it sits so luxuriously in the palace portion of the Cirigan Place Hotel with dazzling views of the Bosporus. This is the best hotel in Istanbul and its spacious dining room is worthy of the location. Do the tender beef cooked in paper and don’t miss the quince tart drenched in cinnamon syrup for dessert. On a warm evening, and that’s just about every evening, request one of the few outside tables on the mini-terrace. Reservations are essential.. . . . . . . For an unusual experience dine at the Develi Restaurant (212/585-1189). Established in 1912, this place specializes in spicy dishes from southeast Anatolia. The eggplant-kebab combinations are recommended . . . . . . . . . . Korfez is not inexpensive but it is romantic. Guests are ferried across the Bosporus from Rumeli Hasari to sample seafood dishes such as sea bass baked in salt. The waterfront setting is quite romantic. . . . . . . . Insiders who love beef and lamb can’t say enough about Gelik, a two-story 19th century villa (212/560-7282) at Sahil Yolu, Atakoy, that is famous for meats cooked in deep pits. A great night out.

London

When it comes to restaurants, at least one London culinary impresario believes that size does matter. At least when it comes to profits. And no one seems to know this better than Sir Terence Conran, the famed London restaurateur who started the trend toward big and tall sized London restaurants with Quaglino’s, a 400-seat emporium of fine food in ocean-liner, down a grand staircase as you enter the dining room, splendor. This location at 16 Bury Street still packs them in but now Sir Terence is on to bigger and better things with the opening of the 700-seat Mezzo in Soho, a dining palace worth visiting because it is literally the largest fine dining experience in all of Europe. It’s a fun experience and the chefs have a deft hand with seafood.

As, perhaps, the most willingly assimilationist city in Europe, London has, until very recently, been known for the quality of Indian and Chinese restaurants within its midst. One could always go to Simpson’s on the Strand for a cut off the roast beef cart, but other than that expensive experience; the notion of finding English food in London seemed like an impossible nightmare, rather than dream.

That has changed. And it has changed in time for the strongest tourist season in London ever, a record breaking-wave of visitors from these and closer shores. For those who experienced the dining scene in London even a mere ten years ago, the changes will be startling. Young chefs are leaving Paris to work in Chelsea. Movie stars and business moguls are getting into the act and a whole collection of London eateries are now virtually impossible to visit on a Friday or Saturday evening unless you know someone. Someone important. Travel agents report that Americans are booking the highest-priced hotels in hopes that the concierge will be able to secure normally unavailable reservations for dinner.

The birth of the EEC has created a stew of interest in things culinary and current. The British have discovered their heritage, a seafaring heritage that offers access to world-class fishmongers capable of far more than cockles and mussels. The cattle from Italy and Switzerland, the pork from Germany and Austria, Salmon from Scotland, are all readily available. Everywhere there is a concern for quality and prices are shooting up. There is an inverse proportion to the price of a restaurant and the difficulty involved in securing a reservation.

What this all means is that it is now possible to dine significantly better in London than one might in most of the major cities of the U.S. If you are going to going to be visiting London this year, we want to be certain that you are properly armed with a listing of the very best restaurants in a number of price ranges. Some of these are well known. But others are still largely undiscovered by tourist hordes. Whenever one went to London there was always the big “But”, as in, “it was absolutely wonderful but the food . . . . .”

But all that has changed. London is now a destination for all seasons, a rich tapestry of far-flung cultures slowly being intertwined with the best of European influences. Yet, happily, thus far the tapestry has a decided British flair and style. You are going to love dining in London if you avoid the numerous pitfalls that still linger in the background. Here are the restaurants that Churchill and Turen staffers recommend to friends who want to dine well in London:

Maui

On Maui, insiders are heading to Sansei Seafood on Bay Drive in Kapalua. This is now Maui’s best restaurant, blending Hawaiian and Japanese cuisine. Sushi is definitely on the menu but so are wonderful local dishes with masterful saucing.

Rome

We like Tram Tram (44 Via dei Reti), a rather trendy trattoria that gets its name from the trams that click and clank right outside the door in the Rome night. This jewel is located in the rather Bohemian San Lorenzo district, so be prepared for an adventure and don’t expect spotless streets. Do try the orecchiette pasta with broccoli and clams as a first course. . . . . …. . If you like to experiment with food try Uno e Bino (58 Via degli Equi). This is where you will find an original panna cotta made with Roguefort and balsamic vinegar ice cream. Neither Baskin or Robbins have discovered that flavor. . . . . . . If you want to see all of the things that Starbuck’s isn’t, do check out the Caffe della Pace for cocktails or espresso. It’s just behind the Piazza Novona at 3-5 Via della Place. Wear something wicked…….Enoteca Ferrara on the Piazza Trilussa is a food shop, wine bar, restaurant where one can enjoy a light meal of considerable quality. Walk past the food ship on the Piazza Trilussa and pick out one of the Tre Biccieri award winning wines. Do the marinated anchovies in the juice of blood oranges or the green cauliflower soup with skate. …… . . . . We do not believe that one should leave Rome without dining in the charming, ancient Trastevere district. There are many fine restaurants here but two of the most reliable are Paris, which serves classic Roman cuisine including homemade fettucine and Romolo where guests enjoy grilled baby lamb chops and mozzarella fried with ham and artichokes. The walk around the neighborhood after dinner is a must. . . . . . . . . For absolute fun, sit outdoors in Trastevere at the Taverna de Mercanti (06 588 1693). This place is informal, atmospheric, and filled ewith young Romans out for a night of fun. It doesn’t matter what you order, you’ll end up eating pizza. ……… After a return visit to La Terrazza, the stunningly panoramic roof-garden restaurant of the Hotel Eden between the Via Veneto and the Villa Borghese gardens, we can report that the import of a new executive chef has, if anything, consolidated its reputation as one of the prime places for power lunches and expense-account dinners at the city center. Enrico Derflinger, the young, award-winning chef who was brought in from London, has emerged as one of Rome's gastronomic wizards. His Queen Victoria risotto with scampi and champagne, his lobster medallions with aromatic herbs, his mint-flavored potato gnocchi, and his macrobiotic sauces accompanying seafood and meat are remarkable. Desserts come in dazzling variety, and the wine list is what you would expect in such a luxury establishment. Prices are stiff. Dinner for two, with a bottle of Italian wine of good vintage and year, will run about $250. Handicap accessible, but mention your needs when you make the essential reservation. Via Ludovisi 49, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-47-8121.

….Antica Enoteca Capranica, in the 16th century Palazzo Capranica a few steps from the Pantheon, has a distinguished clientele and is a luxury restaurant. Business executives and politicians hold power lunches in this elegant, intimate setting; and theatergoers come here for post-performance suppers. Specialties include a soup of spelt (a variety of wheat) and porcini mushrooms, saddle of lamb on a bed of vegetables, and veal shank with lemon. Belon oysters are flown in from France and choice fish from around the Mediterranean. Fine desserts are all made on the premises, and the wine list - including top Italian vintages as well as renowned French labels - is imposing. Open for lunch and dinner, Monday-Friday; dinner only on Saturday. Reservations are a must. Dinner for two, without wine, about $110. Piazza Capranica 100, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-6994-0992………….It will be a test of your seriousness as a culinary sleuth to reach Castello, but the effort will be worth it. Few cabbies will agree to take you to the dilapidated castle on the distant eastern outskirts of Rome, nine miles from the city center. The street is listed in Rome`s official directory but not shown on its maps. The best way to get to the place is with a knowledgeable local who can take down the directions by phone. On the other hand, if you are intrepid enough to try to find it on your own, take the Rome-Tivoli highway, Via Tiburtina (National Route #5), not the Motorway to Tivoli (A-24), and watch for a right turnoff marked Castello Di Lunghezza. No matter how you get there, your efforts will be rewarded by a pleasant surprise, as the ancient castle is the ultimate Roman insider`s spot. Having served as a monastery and as the country retreat of the aristocratic Orsini family, it was all but forgotten until a dedicated restaurateur family, Piero and Anna Maria Eleuteri and their daughters, Micaela and Alessia, opened a gastronomic haven in the reconverted stable wing. Phillippe de Vasconcelos, the French-Basque chef, produces a combination of Latin and Basque cuisine that includes such remarkable dishes as squid pate, crayfish consomme, rabbit fricassee, and sliced beef fillet enriched with foie gras. His chocolate composition dessert is superb. Dinner for two, without wine, about $85. Closed for dinner Sunday and all day Monday. Via Tenuta del Cavaliere 112, near the hamlet of Lunghezza, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-2248-3390. …………Il Sampietrino is a very stylish restaurant in the service wing of an ancient palazzo in the former Ghetto. It is owned by Armando Di Mauro, who is also the proprietor (with his mother) of a renowned winery in Frascati. The restaurant`s name refers to the cobblestones with which St. Peter`s Square and other Roman piazzas are paved. Open only for dinner, Il Sampietrino serves hot food until 2 a.m. in three pleasant rooms; there is a bar near the entrance. The menu is traditional-Roman, framed by tempting vegetarian and seafood hors d`oeuvres and well-executed desserts (although there could be a wider selection of the latter). The restaurant intends to feature a different high-quality wine every month, from the owner`s firm as well as others. Closed Sunday. Dinner for two, without wine, about $80. Piazza Costaguti 15, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-6880-6471…………Taverna Ripetta, an intimate place near the left bank of the Tiber off Piazza del Popolo, has been taken over by Paolo Infascelli, a former motion picture producer and a longtime amateur cook. When he turned professional as the taverna`s new owner/chef early in 1997, many of his friends in the media crowd started dropping in and liking what they found. Among the kitchen`s creative output are pasta with little chunks of duck meat, gnocchi with tiny tomatoes and basil, swordfish carpaccio, and herb-roasted meats. The semifreddo (cake and ice cream) dessert is delicious. A short wine list features the better Italian labels. Infascelli has had the room attractively redecorated with late 19th century prints on the beige walls and fine yellow linen on the tables. Book ahead. Lunch or dinner for two, without wine, about $65. Closed August. Via di Ripetta 158, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-6880-2979. …….Dining al fresco at Camponeschi, in one of the finest squares in Rome, can be the high point of your visit to the Eternal City. It's expensive, but the quality of the food is fine, the service very smooth (albeit at times a trifle supercilious), and the ambiance not the least bit touristy. Italian VIPs and tycoons favor the place. The majestic façade of the early 16th century Palazzo Farnese, designed by Michelangelo and now housing the French embassy, dominates the piazza, which is enlivened by two graceful fountains and has at last been put off limits to automobile traffic and parking (but, alas, not to motor scooters). Alessandro Camponeschi and his son, Marino, manage the place with quiet professionalism, aided by a competent staff. The cuisine is Roman with a few concessions to international preferences. Don't expect any exotic creations, but rather enjoy the tasty salami and other simple appetizers, the pasta fagioli that comes enriched with seafood and the turbot with potatoes. The desserts are good, but not exceptional. The wine list is what you'd expect in a restaurant of this class, although some of the vintages are a bit overpriced. Stick with one of the whites from the Roman hillside. If the weather is bad, you'll have to content yourself with a table in one of three dining rooms, but Camponeschi's trump card really is the piazza, and it may be wise to wait until you can dine there. Dinner only. Dinner without wine, about $180. Piazza Farnese 50, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-687-4927. ………………In the dialect of the Venetian Alps, El Toulà means "the hay barn," and over the years, the name has perversely acquired a ring of sophistication and snobism. The first of a cluster of restaurants by that name opened in an abandoned mountain farm building at the fashionable resort of Cortina d' Ampezzo before World War II, and Rome's branch has been in operation since 1966. A favorite with visiting northern Italian tycoons and Rome's golfing and hunting crowd, the décor of the restaurant's three small rooms is Alpine, and the atmosphere is rather clubby. Menu standouts are all Venetian—pasta (preferably tagliatelle) with purple radicchio salad; calf's liver with boiled onions; dried cod in a tasty sauce; clams; venison with polenta and a chocolaty tiramisù for dessert. Recommended vintages are Soave and Valpolicella. Reservations recommended. Dinner for two, with a bottle of wine from the Veneto (trust the sommelier), about $170. Closed Saturday lunch and all Sunday. Via della Lupa 29B. Tel: 39-06-687-3750. …………..Cesarina specializes in Bolognese cooking in the uncluttered see-through kitchen of a reliable, old, and cavernous place. Dinner for two, without wine, about $65. Via Piemonte 109 (Via Veneto), Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-488-0828. ………..Vecchia Roma stands in a delightful little square at the foot of the Capitol Hill and is one of the best places for an alfresco dinner in the city center, provided you can reserve an outdoor table. The owners, Antonia and Giuseppe Palladino, insist that the kitchen brigade's reinterpretation of traditional local dishes avoid preciousness. Starters may include big crayfish and potatoes in a light, piquant sauce or boned little mullets with the tiny tomatoes that are now both ubiquitous and tasteless. There are a dozen different salads, wonderful pastas (try the spaghetti with meat-and-pecorino sauce) and our favorite main dish - a perfectly done lamb chop. For dessert, we like the profiteroles. The light, white house wine from the Castelli Romani is satisfactory. Dinner for two, with house wine, about $135. Piazza Campitelli 18. Tel: 39-06-686-4604…………Gallura is an elegant seafood restaurant occupying a quiet old villa with a garden in the Parioli section of northern Rome. It is named after the rocky northwest coast of Sardinia, and supplies from that island arrive daily. The oysters are as fresh as you can find in the city. Lobster is prepared in the piquant Catalan style, the fish carpaccio is trustworthy and the spaghetti with dried tuna and pecorino cheese is a dish to savor. The best of the desserts is an orange-flavored iced soufflé. A white Sardinian 1997 Vermentino is the wine to order with seafood. Dinner for two, with wine, $120. Wheelchair accessible. Closed Monday. Via Antonelli 2. Tel: 39-06-807-2971……… La Pergola is the scenic roof-garden restaurant of the Cavalieri Hilton Hotel. Under chef Heinz Beck it is one of Rome's best, blending Italian and international cooking styles. The desserts are fabulous. Evenings only, Tuesday to Saturday. Dinner for two, without wine, about $250. Via Cadiolo 101, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-3-5091………… Relais Le Jardin is a top-class restaurant of the exclusive Lord Byron Hotel. French-inspired, with attention to Italian regional cooking. Extensive wine list. Dinner for two, without wine, about $150. Via De Notaris 5 (Parioli), Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-686-1302. Ai Tre Scalini da Rossana e Matteo has been taken over by a talented young chef named Angelo and is now called Ai Tre Scalini di Angelo. It remains the most elegant restaurant near the Colosseum and is now one of the better ones in that area. Try the tiny gnocchi with seafood as a starter and follow with mullet in a crust of zucchini with grated pecorino cheese or the duck's breast with little glazed onions and a dash of balsamic vinegar. The desserts and the wine list need expansion. Closed Monday. Dinner for two with the pleasant white house wine, about $80. Via Santi Quattro 30, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-709-6309. By the way, there are at least two other restaurants in the city that take their name from the mythical "three little steps." The oldest, and quite touristy one, is on the Piazza Navona, the other is in the modern Fleming section in the city's north……… At Ristorante Sans Souci, excellent Italian food is served in a very formal atmosphere. Red leather banquets, mirrors everywhere, chandeliers, Roman busts and large silver reclining stag candle-holder centerpieces bear testimony to the restaurant's guiding principle: More Is Better. The fine food is more than matched by the people-watching, with everyone dressed fit to kill. Pastas, especially when served with wild asparagus or shrimp and orange peel, are notable. Black truffle risotto, wild salmon with capers and oil and lamb stuffed with aromatic herbs are equally outstanding. Among the many good desserts, the fruit terrine with sorbet is a standout. An unusually good Cabernet Franc Lamont is served by the glass with dessert. Dinner for two, without wine, about $190. Closed Monday. Via Sicilia 20. Tel: 39-06-482-1814…………… Over the last few years, Il Convivio has risen to become one of Rome's finest restaurants, winning one Michelin star in the process. The intimate eating place in the historic center near the Tiber is also among the city's most expensive deluxe haunts. Talented young chef Angelo Troiani may send you a starter of slices of ricotta strudel with ham in a sauce of fresh peas, or tiny squids stuffed with broccoli and codfish mousse. The hallowed Roman pastas are represented here in some strikingly original forms, such as spaghetti with shrimps, olives, and pesto or with basil-flavored meat sauce. The little lasagna with fish croquettes in a light sauce of sparkling wine and saffron is unequalled in all of Rome. One of Angelo's brilliant main dishes consists of pigeon in casserole with sage and lentils and a sauce that tastes of tangerines. His guinea hen is enhanced by a light mustard sauce, and several fish dishes are accompanied by seafood sauce. Scampi and other crustaceans are given a singular flavor by wrapping them in a veil of spinach. Desserts are nothing less than sybaritic - cream soufflé with almonds, prunes, and hot chocolate, or lush mousses. The wine list is loaded with pricey Italian and French classics; some Tuscan and Piedmontese vintages are available by the glass. Service is everything you would expect at this level of dining. Dinner for two, with a medium-priced bottle, about $200. Reservations recommended. Closed August and all Sundays. Via dei Soldati 28, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-686-9432…………..Whenever we`ve had our fill of pasta, we are likely to repair to Thien Kim, a Vietnamese restaurant on the left Tiber embankment opposite the Trastevere section. Many expatriates and a growing number of Romans do the same, because this place has one of the best price-quality ratios in town. The Nguyen family who run it appear to have become Romanized - the food and proceedings in their two small dining rooms blend Indochinese with local features. Soups still come in ceramic mugs with ceramic spoons, and the house specialty, a vegetable broth labeled Island of the Green Paradise, is reheated on a little burner at your table. Or try any of the other soups, with red peppers and onions, or with rice, pork, and crayfish. Fried scampi and other seafood are prepared the Italian way. Everything you order will be brought to your table at the same time. The best dessert is soy pudding. For a beverage, we recommend one of the various Italian and French beer brands available; the wines are just average. Dinner for two, without drinks, about $75. Open evenings only, Monday-Saturday. Reservations needed because the place seats just 40 people, and one of the two rooms is often taken up by a private party. Service by the young Nguyens is very pleasant. Via Giulia 201, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-654-7832……….Da Lisa, a Libyan-Jewish restaurant, offers more authentic kosher food than do most of the restaurants in the former Jewish ghetto. An immigrant from Libya, Signora Lisa cooks vegetable couscous, a Tripolitanian-style Jewish dish, as well as such classic Roman-Jewish cuisine as codfish. The faithful clientele appreciate the salads and soups, but the desserts are Lisa`s forte. The decor in the small establishment in the Esquilino section north of the Colosseum is sober, the ambiance is cordial, and takeout food is available. Closed Friday night and all-day Saturday. Dinner for two, without wine, about $60. No credit cards. Via Foscolo 16/18, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-7049-5456……… Sahara, in the upper-middle-class Nomentana section, features Italianized Eritrean cuisine, including supersweet desserts and honey wine. A vegetarian menu is available. African background music and good service. Dinner for two, without wine, about $60. Viale Ippocrate 43, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-4424-2583………One of the better ethnic restaurants in Rome is El Escarabajo, near the right bank of the Tiber on the southwestern outskirts. The chef, María, who is from Tarragona, makes a paella and a Catalan-style fish soup that many of the city's Hispanic residents prize. There is also a large tapas menu and a good selection of Spanish beer, wine, and brandy as well as Italian wine and tequila. The place opens at 8 a.m. for café con leche and churros. Dinner for two, with beer, about $80. Via della Magliana 63, Rome, Italy. Tel: 39-06-556-1239.

Stockholm

For those seeking a near perfect day in Stockholm, we suggest a brisk walk about Old Town followed by a patient, meandering visit to the Ostermalmshallen Food Market.. Top it off with dinner prepared by one of the city’s top chefs, Mathias Dahlgren , a French-inspired genius who plies his trade at Bon Lloc 33 Bergsgatan. …………..For something more akin to the kind of non-nouvelle food that Swedes eat on the weekend, try Erik’s Bakficka at 4 Fredrikhovsgatan.

Sydney

Housed in The Establishment, a newish entertainment complex, Est is a comfortable place to sample regional fare such as roasted cod with polenta. . . . . . . . . Don’t miss Otto in the refurbished Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf. Right on the harbor with outdoor terrace seating, Otto serves up high-end Italian food with twists such as local oysters. They are known for their poached pear in Campari dessert. . . . . . . . Our personal choice in Sydney is Tetsuya’s, a beautiful den of Japanese elegance featuring formal gardens and rock pools along with an incredible 12-course degustation menu. There are only seventy-five, or so, seats and the local papers have hailed this place as Sydney’s “Best” so let us arrange your reservations in advance.

Vancouver B.C.

Cruise visitors often miss the newly rehabbed Yaletown neighborhood, now a chic outpost of Canadian night life. Contrary to popular belief there really is such a thing. Our favorite is the Blue Water Café and Raw Bar where visitors can join hip locals for some of North America’s best seafood. Don’t even think about starting with anything other than the three-story seafood tower on ice chock full of prawns, lobster, crab, salmon and oysters. This is a version of the famed appetizer served at Yu’s in the Regent Hotel in Hong Kong. . . . . . Chartwell, in the Four Seasons Hotel, may be the city’s finest restaurant. Pacific Northwest cuisine with a refined wine list and superb service is what this place is all about. A top Splurge choice in Vancouver but expect to pay for the privilege. . . . . . . Lumiere at 2551 W. Broadway, is one of the finest French restaurants in North America. Chef Robert Feenie prepares four different tasting menus, one is always vegetarian. Superb wine choices accompany the set menu. This is Vancouver’s best special event palace. . . . . . . Seafood sushi doesn’t get any better than Hidekazu Tojo’s namesake restaurant. Sure it’s expensive but they’re only Canadian dollars so grab a seat or two at the sushi bar, slightly bow your head and say “omakase” which basically means “chef – you know what’s fresh so you decide”. …….The classic Italian cuisine at Villa Del Lupo( 869 Hamilton St.) is accompanied by a delightful atmosphere, excellent service, and an outstanding collection of wines. Easily the city’s best Italian dining but definitely not Taylor Street. . . . . . . . VIJ’S at 1480 11 th St., is a west side showcase of elevated Indian food. The chef-owner, Vikram Vij, likes long lines so he doesn’t take reservations. . . . . . .

Venice

This city is packed with tourists from May until the end of September so reservations for dinner are always necessary at the local temples of gastronomy. Avoid any restaurant with a four language menu. Avoid any restaurant that isn’t at least 50% locals, or at least Italian. Be aware of the Venetian tap water scam in refilled bottles. That said, there is some serious dining to be had. Da Raffaele (523 – 23 17) has memorable risotto and a magnificent collection of arms and armor. . . . . . . . . Alla Comomba (522 – 11-75), near La Fenice Theater, is a Churchill and Turen favorite because of its winning fish entrees and an extraordinary carpaccio…………….

Vienna

Everyone in this city of music lovers is talking about the Vestibul the historic Burgtheater. You will be dining on mushroom-filled dumplings and lamb cooked with olives in a room that once served as Emperor Franz Josef’s private entrance hall. Atmospheric and elegant.

The Best Destinations for Lovers of

Fine Food:

The American tourist is part of a vast army that travels on and often through its collective stomach. We are constantly in search of food discoveries. Some of the best food destinations are relatively unknown. Here is a list of some of our favorites:

Naxos - or Samos, or Paros, or any one of the 55 or so inhabited Greek islands. It's the cultural requirement that only the freshest ingredient be used that makes island cuisine truly memorable. How do they do that with a simple Greek salad?

Spain - in the small towns and villages an hour or two outside Madrid, restaurants like El Bulli are creating flavor-envy among denizens of the culinary underworld. Spain. for Foodies, is simply where its happening. Go there or be square.

Bologna - Every Italian knows that the best, the very best, food in Italy is found in the small restaurants in little-known Bologna. That it happens to be utterly beautiful with its miles of colonnades, and only an hour from Florence, makes it even more attractive as a destination.

Lyon - One could argue - but Lyon probably has the best food in France, and despite our prejudices, that still means that it has, block for block, the best food in the world.

Brussels - Rapidly gaining on Lyon as a foodie haven. The world's best chocolate is, alone, a reason to visit.

Oaxaca - Not a bad place to begin the search for Mexico's true culinary foundation. Less Mayan and more heavily influenced by the Spanish, this area has some of Mexico's very best small restaurants, almost all set in a Jimmy Buffet kind of environment.

Montreal - Yes Candia, that part of the world least familiar to Americans. The locals don;t really care if you come or not, but this is a nearby cosmopolitan gem of a city that seems to be totally involved in the creation of memorable cuisine. This is the "no-brainer" destination for foodies.