The Churchill & Turen, Ltd. Travel Report
Worldwide Insider Recommendations

Volume I - Issue # 3
Recommendations • Evaluations • Opinions
Prepared Exclusively for Churchill & Turen Ltd. Clients and Subscribers

AMSTERDAM – The Dutch now own more of the United States than the Japanese. The Netherlands is quietly thriving, with one of the highest per capita incomes in the world. So dinner checks can be dear. But the Dutch do not believe in big lunches, so most of the really pricey places open only for dinner. If you want to “go Dutch” try a nice bowl of soup with bread or try a sandwich from one of the small Brugge’ stands scattered throughout the city . . . . . Near the Royal Palace, the terminally hip are enjoying the Supper Club, a restaurant with no tables. Ring the bell and you are ushered upstairs where giant cushioned banquettes line the walls, There is an open kitchen and entertainment each evening.

ANGUILLA - It isn’t often that a Spa Resort is named after a kitchen appliance so we were very pleased to see the opening of this 93-room resort located just across the Bay from St. Martin. Long one of Insider’s favorite islands, Anguilla has totally escaped the mass commercialism of its neighbors. The CuininArt Resort and Spa sits on its own white-sand beach. The resorts architecture will remind guests of Mykonos, whitewashed villas surrounded by gardenias, bougainvillea, and citrus trees. The resort offers cooking classes, low-fat dining options, Yoga and aerobics. Skip the standard guestroom in favor of a one-bedroom suite complete with private solarium and patio.

BALI - The sense of place begins as you arrive by way of a footbridge that crosses a river and leads to a lotus pond surrounded by palm and banana trees. This is the revered Ayung Rover Valley in the middle of Bali and you’ve arrived at the Four Seasons Resort Sayan, not far from Ubud. Your private villa will have hand-made furniture carved by local craftsmen, a bad surrounded by romantic netting, and a private plunge pool. There is a spa that features a deep bath with floating rose petals and frangipani. Add Asian-isnpired cuisine and the talents of Chef Frank Ruidavet, along with roosters gently crowing on a sunny morning in the distance and you have the ultimate retreat for adults experiencing the stress of a rollercoaster stock market and too many people who want to become instant millionaires.

CAIRO - Photo-journalists consider the oldest sections of Cairo a photographers dream. Insiders try to position themselves in the medieval back streets in the two hours before sunset to best capture the bright but hazy light and the passing parade . . . . . . . .

CRUISE LINE RATINGS

In this issue, we continue our re-evaluation of selected cruise lines using a 100 point system with five categories. As always, our scores and recommendations are based on a combination of weighted factors including industry reports/personal inspection reports/evaluations by thousands of Churchill & Turen clients as well as the better--known published ratings. By using a 100 point system and using the largest number of possible sources and personal inspection criteria, we believe that our ratings are the most accurate currently available. But caveat emptor – any rating is subjective and we are just a bit harder to please than most.

CRYSTAL CRUISES

This is the current luxury benchmark cruise line. No one comes close to duplicating Crystal’s sense of style and truly personalized on-board service in the category of vessels with more than 500 guests. Ever since the launch of the Crystal harmony in 1990, followed by the Crystal Symphony, NYK, the line’s Japanese owner, has been cautious about expansion, fostering rumors that Crystal would be gobbled up by a larger line. Now, with the announcement that they are building a third ship. Crystal seems to be on a steady course, changing little of its superb on-board product. The line’s biggest problem is operating high luxury-standard service levels on a two-seating ship. Compensation comes in the form of two alternative restaurants, one Chinese or Japanese, the other Italian. Although priced similarly, the Symphony’s standard outside and balcony cabins are somewhat larger then those found on her sister. The Crystal ships are lovely but not particularly glamorous. The food is delicious, but less adventurous than the cuisine on, say Seabourn or Silverseas. So what is the reason for the consistently high ratings of this line? One of our inspectors put it this way: “Why did I love it? It’s totally comfortable – easy layout, open and airy. The ship provides the perfect backdrop for the excellent service provided one and all. The primarily Norwegian officers are all well-spoken and charming. Crew is mostly Filipino and European, Guests are engaged in conversation, every effort is made to make you feel special. Women are escorted to their table in the dining room by waiters lined up to give them their arm and conversation. The staff recognized and skillfully acknowledged a great many past passengers by name. The food was not gourmet but it was delicious. The specialty in Prego, the Italian restaurant, is an excellent rack of lamb. We loved the Bistro, where we stopped many afternoons for tea, coffee, or wine with fabulous pate, cheese, and pastries. The big production shows are extremely professional but do appeal to an older crowd. We noticed that the shower curtain in our bathroom was changed daily and linens twice daily. Bedspreads are changed after every cruise. That is our personal symbol of Crystal quality." Another of our inspectors commented that “Crystal has essentially done what everyone in the industry said couldn’t be done – they’ve brought Ritz Carlton and Four Seasons service standards aboard an ocean-going vessel. When it comes to big ship cruising, there is Crystal and then everyone else.”

HOLLAND AMERICA LINE

This Premium cruise line is a wholly owned subsidiary of Carnival. The Holland America nameplate is, considerably older, then its owners. The line began operations in 1873 and played a major role in bringing immigrants to this country from Europe. Holland America has embarked on an ambitious ship building program. But guests who book the line’s older ships, the Westerdam the Noordam, and the Nieuw Amsterdam, will, we believe, be disappointed. The new in 2000 Zaandam and Amsterdam will complement a fleet of mid-size vessels, the Statendam(1993), the Maasdam(1993), the Ryndam(1994), the Veendam(1996), each carrying 1,266 passengers. The Volendam and Rotterdam V are even newer additions to the fleet. The officers are Dutch and the cabin crew is Indonesian and Filipino. Some passengers are put off by less than gracious treatment of the crew by officers. Holland America’s ships are among the most elegant afloat, quite reminiscent of, what one imagines, a great liner of the 40’s looked like. The ships feature larger than average outside cabins, with B category balconies very much in demand and well worth the investment. The ships have a laid back feel with elegant touches. This is a line that appeals to those 60 and older and is clearly the most conservative cruising choice for those who want Old World charm without Vegas-style glitz. HAL does not do port intensive 7-day cruises from San Juan. The line is quite strong on 10-11 Day Caribbean and Panama Canal sailings. Wide variety of excellent Alaska tours but some interior hotels are showing their age. Food is excessively bland – and although they are getting better, so are the shows. But the elegance and high service standards make HAL a serious choice for mature adults.

ESOTERICA – If you’ve been to more than 100 countries, including cruise ship ports of call, you can qualify for membership in the Traveler’s Century Club, the globe-trotting association for world travelers who collect countries as so many notches on their collective belts. Currently only ten of the 1500 or so members have visited every one of the listed 313 locations currently listed. Sovereign nations are all listed as are territories that lie at least 200 miles from the motherland. For membership information contact the club at 310-393-7419. . . . . . . Wines & Spirits Magazine reports that the average restaurant in the U.S. offers 15 wines by the glass at an average price of, a staggering, $8.20 per glass. On average, Cabernet Sauvignon will cost the most while Savignon Blanc should cost the least. . . . . . . Virgin Atlantic Airways will soon be equipping its Upper Class cabins with double beds surrounded by a red leather privacy screen. Single beds will also be available. Virgin flies non-stop to London from O'Hare.

GREEK ISLANDS – One of the world’s great destinations – the Greek islands offer an unending odyssey of personal discovery. Each island group has its own features. Few Americans ever visit Kephallinia, the largest of the Ionian islands. The capital, Argostoli, is built on the Phanari peninsula in a sheltered bay. The lovely island has thick woods, underground tunnels and caves, mineral springs, and charming harbors. Stay at the simple 44-room Xenia hotel. Just two nautical miles west of Kephallinia is the lovely island of Ithaki with its superb harborfront capital, Vathy. This 98 square mile island has more than sixty miles of nearly perfect beachfront. Stay at the 68 bed Mentor Hotel in town. And don’t expect to see the American Express bus.

ISTANBUL – We have seldom felt as decadent at the time we sat on a spectacular outdoor terrace enjoying the cuisine at the Tugra Restaurant in the Cirogan Palace Hotel Hotel Kempinski on the European side of the Bosphorus. Ask for a sea view room, avoiding those that overlook the busy front entrance. This is one of those hotels that we plan trips around – if we can’t stay here we don’t go. Originally built out of wood in the 1500’s, the property was later remodeled as a palace for Sultan Abdulaziz in 1887. The excellent concierge staff will arrange for a private driver to take you to the Spice market or the Grand Bazaar. But, in your room with a balcony overlooking the sea, elegant restaurants, and an inviting swimming pool, you won’t want to leave this property.

HAWAII – Finally, folks in Hawaii have recognized that visitors might appreciate a fish restaurant or two that specializes in excellence. On Maui, insiders are heading to Sansei Seafood on Bay Drive in Kapalua. This is now Maui’s best restaurant, blending Hawaiian and Japanese cuisine. Sushi is definitely on the menu but so are wonderful local dishes with masterful saucing. If you’re visiting the more laid-back garden island of Kauai, don’t miss A Pacific Café on Kuhio Highway in Kapaa. The Paciifc rim menu bristles with outstanding fish seafood options.

JAMAICA – Despite it’s reputation as an unsafe haven, Jamaica has its supporters. While there are areas where going out at night is not recommended, the island is currently undergoing a small building boomette. We still recommend staying as far away from Kingston as possible. A State department advisory has been in effect for this part of the island for several years. But there are lovely options elsewhere. Those seeking a comfortable, natural country inn with style will like the new Country Country, a 14-room wonderland of color sitting prettily along Negril’s seven-mile white--sand beach. (Fax 876-957-4342). . . . . . . Our current favorite among the all-inclusive resorts in Ocho Rios, the Jamaican Riviera, is Grand Lido Sans Souci. It’s nestled on a lush hillside overlooking a beautiful private beach. The resort features pools fed by naturally flowing mineral waters, secret grottos, and massage gazebos that overlook the water. There are four restaurants, one with white glove service another with candlelit contemporary ranch cuisine. Children under the age of 17 are not permitted.

LAUSANNE – This beautiful small Swiss city hugs the shore of Lake Geneva. The Beau-Rivage Palace is the area’s premier resort, a host to royalty since 1861. Set directly on the lakefront and surrounded by a ten-acre private park, this legendary hotel offers spa facilities, boating, tennis, and a selection of tres chic shops and wonderful restaurants. As for the service, let’s just say that the world’s best hotel management school is located in the city, one registers one’s child at birth to be properly eligible for a place, and the Beau Rivage tends to hire the top graduates.
LONDON – Insiders flying British Airways Business Class to Europe are raving about the new arrivals lounge for upper class passengers. Located in Terminal Four, the lounge features aromatherapy, private showers, a small gym, and free facials, massages, and reflexology treatment provided by the Molton Brown Travel Spa. . . . . . . The London restaurant scene grows more vibrant with each passing hour. Here are some of the current haunts of insiders: La Famiglia, 7 Langton Street, serves up true Tuscan family-style cuisine in a comfortable Chelsea location. Those in the know order the Ribolita, a dish made with beans, vegetables, and leftover bread that is a regular feature of outdoor summer tables in the villages south of Florence. . . . . . . Based on a series of recent hotel inspections, our preferred address in London is St. James Place, a narrow street that has two cul-de-sacs, one embracing the 52-room Duke’s Hotel, the other, our personal favorite, the Stafford, an oasis of civility and calm off busy St. James Street. The best rooms are in the Stafford’s Carriage House, offering calm in a cobblestoned courtyard that will make you feel as though you are staying in an old coaching inn. The location of both hotels, not far from Piccadilly and the theater district is absolutely ideal. Do be advised, however, that gentlemen must wear a jacket in the delightful American bar after 5:00pm . . . . Our inspection of Blake’s Hotel, considered by many to be London’s finest small hotel, was disappointing. Smallish rooms and somewhat garish décor do not compensate for a lack of professionalism at the front desk or generally diffident service. The location, on a residential street in South Kensington, is inconvenient for those who want to use the underground. At $350-=$550 per night, we felt that Duke’s or The Stafford are better choices. . . . . .Alastair Little (136a Lancaster Road) is a restaurant that offers unpretentious Italian cuisine with modern interpretations by the place’s namesake. Insiders love his pumpkin and ricotta ravioli. Another Notting Hill area find isAssaggi, a small room above the Chepstow pub featuring straightforward dishes such as a filet with chanterelle mushrooms. This is a place known for the quality of its ingredients. . . . Quo Vadis is the latest venture of famed chef Marco-Pierre White. The 110 seat restaurant in Soho features affordable (for London anyway) French food in a lively brasserie setting. But it is the vodka lounge, upsteairs in the former digs of one Karl Marx, that has everyone talking. . . . . . . . Take one of Chelsea’s most traditional pubs and turn it over to famed decorator Nina Campbell and you get one of London;s trendiest pub/dining rooms. The dining room in the Admiral Codrington is actually upstairs; a huge room with a glass roof that opens on the rare sunny day. Try the Risotto or the unusual mustard mashed potatoes.

MOSCOW – Although Maxim’s opened here in 1996 with not a little fanfare, Moscovites seem more impressed with the contemporary French fare being served up at Brasserie du Soleil on Ulitsa Taganshaya. With entrees under $35.00, insiders report that this is one of Moscow’s best menus.. .

PARIS - In the Sevres/Invalides area of Paris, we have found a number of highly regarded restaurants of interest. Le Divellec (107 rue de l’Universite) is an excellent choice for those who appreciate the freshest seafood in the hands of a skilled chef. L”Arpege (84 rue de Varenne) is another classic under the direction of chef Michel Pasard. Le Rouge Vif (48 rue de Verneuil), is an excellent choice for lunch. This is where French editors from the major publishing houses do their deals. Ask for a mezzanine table if one is available. . . . . . If you find yourself doing a bit of high-end shopping at some of the big-name designer shops along the Avenue Montaigne, consider a late afternoon lunch at L’Avenue (41). This high energy place is open from noon to midnight. Don’t be surprised if the face you saw on the cover of Paris Vogue is settled in the velvet armchair next to you. . . . . . . . Most American visitors to Paris are seeking shopping opportunities that are unique to the city. That’s why we recommend a visit to the area known as St. Germain-des-Pres on the Left Bank. Stop in for a morning coffee and croissants at Café de la Marie near the Church St. Sulpice, home to those beautiful Delacroix murals. Locals head to Maison de Famile, a three-floor store featuring linens, sportswear, and antique provincial furniture. In the same neighborhood, Les Etains du Campanile sells beautiful hand-made pewter bowls and serving dishes. Among the better small hotels in the area is Relais St. Sulpice at 3 rue Garanciere. The top floor rooms have vies of the church. . . . . . . . Paris insiders flock to the annual Les Puces du Design held during the first weekend in October at Place Goldoni, off the Rue St. Denis. This rather upscale flea market features works by some of Paris’ most avant-garde designers. TV sets from the sixties are sold alongside painted bedstands and armchairs from the twenties. . . . . We think the Paris deal of the year is the four-course luncheon (around $65 per person) at Le Grand Vefour, in the Palais-Royal on Paris’ right bank. Chef Guy Martin has just picked up his third Michelin star, the only new restaurant added to the list this year. This beautiful restaurant is owned by the Tattinger Champagne folks. . . . . . . There are still a number of Parisian restaurants and food specialty shops that are known only to locals. Here are some suggestions for genuine foodies. Possibly the best charcuterie in Paris is Pierre Oteiza’s shop featuring Basque specialties at 13 rue Vignon. Make certain you try the jambon de Bayonne, You will remember it each time you buy ham at Jewel’s. . . . . . . . There is an open-air market at Place d’ Auteuil. And just across the street, onrue d’ Auteuil is a shop called Servant that makes and sells candy from every section of France. . . . . . For a wonderful, useful gift, consider the kitchen knives at the Laguiole Store, 1, place Ste-Opportune. These are the legendary knives with the bee on the handle made in the village of Laguiole. . . . . . . . One of our favorite, offbeat Paris restaurants is L’Escargot Montorgueil at 38, rue Montorgueil. This is where snail fetishists from all over the world gather to de or take-away. There must be a lot of these folks, the restaurant has been around for almost 150 years. . . . . . . . . L’Univers des Anges Gourmands at 49 av. De la Bourdonnais 7e, is one of those “only in Paris” shops. They are technically referred to as “fleuristes du chocolat”. It looks like a florist’s shop, but the flower bouquets here are made with heavenly chocolate. . . . . . Laduree at 16, rue Royale, has, alas, been discovered. But few tourists wander in to this temple of macaron or, as we know them, macaroons. This tea salon is the place to sit and savor. Insiders suggest trying to taste one of each color.

PERU – Even jaded travelers return from the site of Machu Picchu in awe. No one really knows who built this mystical kingdom or how its population departed. Try to avoid visiiting in the summer months. The best hotel is the Machu Picchu Pueblo, located at the point where the train from Cuzco ends and the bus transfer to the site begins, an area known as Aguas Calientes. Try to stay for two nights and book far ahead.

ROME – The Eternal City will be celebrating its Jubilee Year 2000 this summer and those thinking about a prolonged stay in the city might be wise to postpone their trip. Crowds will be the rule rather than the exception. Pickpockets will be prevalent in major tourist areas, the subway, and on popular tourist bus route like the #64 that runs from St. Peters to the train station. At Fiumincino Airport, arriving passengers are strongly advised to avoid non-metered gypsy cabs. . . . . . . Rome has fewer hotels of quality than it should. We recently inspected a large number of properties and offer the following recommendations:

• The Eden – This 112 room gem competes with the gaudier Excelsior. On a side street off the Via Veneto, the Eden offers some of Rome’s finest guest rooms and the excellent La Terraza restaurant.
  Some of the front rooms come with smallish balconies. Double rooms average $400+.
• Hotel Excelsior – This is Rome’s most prestigious address even though she sits on the, now faded, Via Veneto. If one is to find excellent, sincere service in Rome this is probably the address. Try to get a room facing the inner court. La Cupola is a fine dining legend. Rates average $400+.
• Hotel Rafael – Our first choice in Rome, a lovely stone villa covered with vines on a cul-de-sac near the Piazza Navona and the ever-opening doors of Parliament.The small guest rooms are beautifully furnished. Lots of government officials stay here and security can be intimidating. Top-drawer restaurant, fitness center, and room rates that average $400+. Try to get corner room # 509.
• Hotel De La Ville Inter-Continental – A lower-priced competitor to its neighbor, the Hassler, this property sits on a rather loud side street near the Spanish steps. Accommodations in the 19th palace vary – either choose floors five through eight for the views or an inner courtyard room. $400
• Crown Plaza Minerva – Absolutely terrific location near the Parthenon and high-end guest rooms make this a fine First Class option. The entire package is housed in a 17th century building including a restaurant offering dining in a formal hall. Rates average $385.
• Aldrovandi Palace – Once a convent, this 140 room hotel on a bisy street in a residential area across from the Zoo offers good value. Rooms are nice enough and facilities include a fitness center and a swimming pool set in a lovely garden. A good value with rooms in the $325 range.
• Albergo Del Sole Al Pantheon – Insiders point out that this could well be the oldest hotel in the world. A memorable location and 26 austerely furnished rooms. Breakfast only but many good restaurants in the area. For those who love antiquity, this is a good three-star choice with rates averaging $290. Ask for room numbers 110 or 210.

SORGES - How did this tiny village in southwestern France make our list of Insider recommendations? It is only home to the most prized delicacy on earth. Of the seventy or so varieties of truffles, the to-die-for underground fungus, two are revered by gourmets. The first is the white truffle which is found in Italy. But the very best is said to be the black Perigueux, found in Sorges but named after its larger village neighbor. A good beginning strategy would be to contact the English-speaking curator of the Musee de la Truffle by dialing 35-5-53-05-90-11. Tour the museum with its one employee and then stop by the Auberge de la Truffle restaurant and hotel. The rooms are quite spartan but that’s not the point. Order truffled scrambled eggs and you will discover gastronomic Nirvana.

SPAIN – The absolutely hottest European destination this summer for those who appreciate architectural design is Bilbao, and Frank Gehry’s astonishing Guggenheim Bilbao Museum. By walking along the riverbank and looking at it from different views, the building will seem to change shape before your eyes. Bilbao is not far from the French seaside resort, Biarritz, and its famed Hotel du Palais, a building that formerly served as Emperor Napolean’s summer palace. Don’t miss lunch in the lovely belle epoque Rotunde Restaurant, overlooking the Atlantic.

ST. BART’S – Just off the Rue du Centenaire in Gustavia, there is a Roots Arts and Crafts store. And just behind it is a high fence shielding outsiders from one of the island’s best dining experiences, Eddie’s. Go for lunch and soak up that fab St. Bart’s sun – the tables are outside. . . . .
VERMONT - When we are asked to recommend the very best Inn in the United States, our thoughts turn to Twin Farms, in Barnard. We view this as the ultimate getaway for those seeking a quiet, romantic, unobtrusively luxurious experience. Imagine 8 cottages, 6 guest rooms, each individually decorated. Imagine a $6 million art collection, 235 acres of flowered meadows and crisp forests, a lake, a ski slope, a Japanese bathhouse. Imagine no check-in, no bills to sign and a world class chef, Neil Wigglesworth, who will create special meals based on your preferences. There’s even a stocked bar. Best of all – the feather beds. Yes, luxury comes at a price, but this is one extravagance that we feel is worth it.