The Churchill & Turen, Ltd. Travel Report
Worldwide Insider Recommendations

Volume I - Issue # 1
Recommendations • Evaluations • Opinions
Prepared Exclusively for Churchill & Turen Ltd. Clients and Subscribers

ALASKA – Not everyone wants to see Alaska via mega-ship. Although they are not widely known in the Midwest, a company called Off the Beaten Path has a nine-night independent adventure it calls "Authentic Alaska" ($2, 150 p.p.) that features visits to some of the spectacular mountain ranges, coastal areas, and small towns of central Alaska.

CHICAGO - Although Charlie Trotter gets the kudos and the credit card commercials, Sarah Stegner, the 31 year-old chef at the Ritz Carlton is receiving raves from industry insiders for her flawless renditions of American regional cooking. It is worth noting that she started working in the Ritz kitchen when she was nineteen.

THE COOK ISLANDS - A destination discussed in hush tones at Starbucks in Old Town or at the Pancake House closest to the Northwestern campus. A destination known only to certain readers of the exotic along the lesser traveled roads of the Internet highway. Idyllic beaches, undiscovered atolls, and breadfruit trees lining pathways leading to the rainforest. These are the images of the Cook Islands, one of the current "hot" destinations for those who still think that Robinson Crusoe had a good idea. Muri Beach on Rarotonga is where you want to stay, in one of the kitchen equipped villas. Sokala Villas are really small bungalows with tin roofs. But they have their own small swimming pools set amidst groves of palm trees. And the Flame Tree restaurant, where they know how to cook up shrimp and lobster is just next door. If you’re visiting this part of the world, we suggest a departure between July and the end of September.

DOMENICA - One of those still, largely undiscovered islands where those in the know seek out isolated digs with fabulous views and mountains of privacy. One of the best is Petit Coulibri, three gorgeous cottages surrounded by full circular views. The surrounding woods reveal secret gardens with waterfalls and sulfur springs. Think four-poster beds and etched glass windows overlooking the Caribbean from 1,000 feet above the sea.

FIJI – If Paradise was ever lost, we think we may have found it. An unfettered island reachable by helicopter or launch from Suva on Fiji. The Wakaya Club is the ultimate getaway. Paradise has an extraordinary chef but no snakes or bugs. Paradise is where Hollywood and the Silicon Valley moguls head when they seek sybaritic solitude. This is the one I want for Christmas; an island where everything is just as good as it can be in an atmosphere of natural and casual elegance. And it’s less than $1000 per day per couple – and that includes the plane ride from Fiji. Certainly not a bargain – but what price for the ultimate memory?

FLORIDA KEYS – We have always remained lukewarm about the Miami area, feeling it has become a sort of New York with palm trees. It lacks all manner of southern charm, has non of the quirky characters one would find in Baton Rouge, or Biloxi, and most of the restaurants do their main business between 4:00-6:00 PM. when the early birders arrive for their nightly feeding. But there is another Florida, out along the Keys. It’s called Little Palm Island, and it’s just a short launch away, a tiny enclave of civility and comfort. Get a room on stilts and sit in your hammock. When you get tired of that, head out to Little Torch Key or take the snorkeling boat to Looe Key.

Ever take a cruise ship out of Miami? Do you remember passing a private island on the starboard side just before leaving landfall? It’s a residential community with a private ferry service and its called Fisher Island. It has one of the finest spas in the U.S., small, private, exclusive. And you can practically see Gloria Estafan’s house from the whirlpool bath.

GREEK ISLANDS – Don’t miss the opportunity and don’t buy a tour. Greece should be created to your liking, a necklace of island perfection arranged as jewels belonging only to you. For starters do Symi, Patmos, and tiny Argironisos. Avoid Thira on Santorini but do stay in Oia. Renaissance Cruises is marketing all-year cruises to the Greek islands in mid-winter. The concept might sound appealing but avoid it at all costs. The shops will be closed the weather dreadful. Aim for May Or the last two weeks of April. If that fails, try the last two weeks of September or the first two weeks of October.

JAMAICA – This is no one’s favorite Caribbean island and it certainly isn’t ours. The crime situation is exaggerated but the "hassle" factor isn’t. Cruise ships call here for the available fresh water and bunker fuel. But that’s going to stop unless the locals learn to handle day visitors. Still and all, Jamaica does have some very fine resorts and some of the best all-inclusive properties in the Caribbean. The best of the breed is the Grand Lido Negril, a perfectly landscaped 210 suite resort with terrific snorkeling, more than adequate rooms with French doors, and restaurants that are a lot more than mere buffet lines. They even have their own nude beach. Budgeteers can combine a stay here with a charter air package for a vacation that includes just about everything – including drinks.

LONDON – When it comes to restaurants, at least one London culinary impresario believes that size does matter. At least when it comes to profits. And no one seems to know this better than Sir Terence Conran, the famed London restaurateur who started the trend toward big and tall sized London restaurants with Quaglino’s, a 400- seat emporium of fine food in ocean-liner, down a grand staircase as you enter the dining room, splendor. This location at 16 Bury Street still packs them in but now Sir Terence is on to bigger and better things with the opening of the 700-seat Mezzo in Soho, a dining palace worth visiting because it is literally the largest fine dining experience in all of Europe. It’s a fun experience and the chefs have a deft hand with seafood. . . . . .The hottest gift you can bring home from London these days is an authentic British Soccer shirt – or perhaps you might want to purchase an entire uniform. The best place to go is Soccer Scene at 30 Great Marlborough Street or their second store at 17 Foubert’s Place. Both stores are within walking distance of the busy Oxford Circus tube stop. Manchester and Arsenal are the current best sellers. . . . . . It occurred to us that we might suggest the perfect gift – for us. That might well be a pound or so of Stilton Cheese from Randolph Hoodgson’s delightful Neal’s Yard Dairy in Covent Garden. This is only the best place to buy cheese in England, unless of course, you are willing to fight the crowds at Harrod’s Food Hall. Mr. Hodgson collects and ages cheeses from all over the Empire, or what’s left of it. No promises made regarding your chances of sneaking the cheese past Benny the Beagle at O’Hare. . . . . . . If you’re interested in arriving in London the easy way, try flying American into Gatwick Airport instead of Heathrow. The Gatwick Express train will have you at Victoria Station in thirty minutes. Gatwick now ranks as the seventh-busiest airport in the world. The South Terminal has the only airport Planet Hollywood Restaurant on the planet – but that alone is hardly a reason to avoid Heathrow. British Airways is now using Gatwick as its hub for flights to Africa, Latin America, and the Caribbean.

MEXICO – Travelers to Mexico need to be aware of an increasing number of crimes against tourists. Most prevalent is so-called "taxi crime," involving attacks and robberies of passengers. Police corruption in Mexico is now rampant, making it difficult for visitors to recover their stolen possessions. Tourist boards are adept at keeping crime activities directed toward foreign visitors out of the news. But the situation in some of Mexico’s largest cities such as Acapulco and Mexico City. Is so serious that the State Department has seen fit to issue a stern warning. The issue of taxi-crime has received front-page attention from the New York Times. The problem has really developed during the past six months. The implications are clear. We no longer advise the use of taxis within Mexico at night or outside of major tourist areas such as Cancun, Puerto Vallarta, or Caba San Lucas. Only use taxis recommended by your hotel concierge. Consider hiring a recommended private driver in an unmarked vehicle. Tourist crime exists in many parts of the world. But we are very concerned about crime in Mexico because it is accompanied by the harrowing reality of a police force that seems unable to deal with the problem.

MOROCCO – Accessible and under-visited by Midwestern, who seem largely unaware of its charm, excellent food, world-class hotels, and affordability, Morocco is exotica under control. The Palais el Jamal is our favorite place to stay. Built in 1879, it sits with the walls of the huge medina at Bab el Guisa. For those who don’t care for the idea of staying in a Moorish palace, the Hotel Les Merinides offers more contemporary appointments.

In Marrakech, there is only one place to stay – the truly venerable La Mamounia. It’s seventeen acres of gardens and Art Deco with doors that open to one of the world’s great human circuses, a square with everything from snake charmers to jugglers on stilts.

Sophisticated travelers have now heard about Taroudant, home to the best of the souks in Morocco. The Hotel Salam is quieter than offerings closer to the heart of town and is built into the wall of the ancient city. If you want to splurge, you may have to pay $75 for one of the best rooms.

There is poverty in Morocco, there is dust, and there are lots of local shills. But this ancient culture offers culinary delights, intriguing shopping opportunities in ancient markets, along with memorable hotels, and high marks on the price/value scale.

MOSCOW - Moscow is getting into the Sunday brunch scene, and the current leader of the pack has to be the massive buffet at the Metropol Restaurant. Located in the Metropole Hotel, this Sunday spectacular is priced at just under $60 per person. Along with everything you would expect – plus caviar, performing magicians, jugglers, and clowns, enliven the atmosphere. That takes some doing in this former command post of the Stalin era.

MUSTIQUE – One of those islands that only genuine "Insiders" have experienced. Absolutely perfect beaches, along with 5-star villas and the Cotton House, a totally relaxing small resort built on the ruins of an 18th century plantation. This is where the pretty people go. When you get there – you’ll see why. For your beach party, they will set you up with a hamper filled with delicious fried chicken, shrimp salad, fresh loaves of bread, and, of course, cushions and mats for you to lie on as you snack. Even the Holiday Inn in Rockford doesn’t do that.

NEW ORLEANS – Those with the means to travel in style know that French tend to vacation in the world’s most beautiful locations. They own French Polynesia, they have created the most beautiful islands in the Caribbean, and they do North Africa in style. The people who developed the Loire Valley and Provence know more than the Disney people, about the value of serene sophistication.

So it is wise, I think, to visit America’s French city, New Orleans, a visit that can be entirely justified on the basis of cuisine alone. But where to stay?

The historic Soniat House is on Chartres street, right in the heart of the lugubrious French Quarter, But the courtyard garden and the southern hospitality will soon make you forget that you’re in a city. Rooms 30 and 33 are best, with skylights and sun. In the morning, you’ll be pampered with homemade biscuits and preserves. Then it’s only a few hours until you can dine at Emeril’s or, for traditionalists, the ultimate New Orleans restaurant, Galatoire’s.

PARIS - There is a book for lovers of Paris and fine food that is so well done that it is currently riding high on our list of The Best Travel Books of the Decade. The Michelin-sized soft-cover "Restaurants of Paris" is a small treasure, filled with brimming history, anecdotes, photos, and architectural layouts of the historic and best regarded restaurants in the best food city in the world. Published by Knoft, the book is available at Borders and Barnes and Noble ($25.00). This book will turn you into a food expert and provide wonderful guidance to for those on their first or thirtieth visit to Paris. . . . . . One of our favorite stores is Catimini, an upscale children’s clothing shop at 114 avenue des, Champs-Elysees. Their age range is 0-14 years old; their price range is well suited for those who bought Microsoft at $5 a share, but the styles will make you smile. Perhaps just a sweater for Heather. . . . . . . . . The Paris Metro system opened its first line in 1900. Since then, the underground platforms and passenger tunnels have developed a lingering odor that could raise all sorts of generalities about the general condition of European hygiene. But the French are fighting these odors. They have developed a "fragrance" and named it Madeline, after one of the prettiest and foulest smelling metro stops in the city. By the time you next visit Paris, the new fragrance should have penetrated the entire rail network. . . . . . . . . Given the fact that you can have a memorable meal in more than one thousand Parisian eateries, we are never comfortable singling out one or two for special mention. However, if you are looking for a wonderful, rather upscale but still comfortable bistro meal, you could do worse then head to L’Ardoise in the 1st arrondissement near the Tuileries (42-96-28-18). This will not be a nouvelle experience. Chef Pierre Jay likes to surprise guests with unusual combinations. One of the safest bets is his lobster, roasted in a sauce of champagne . . . . . . . . What would happen of a number of the most interesting restaurants in France all got together and agreed to offer a special tasting menu for visitors priced around $83?

It has happened and you will find the list on the web at www.degriftour.com. Don’t bother trying to track down the phone number, – they work entirely off the net.

PHUKET – The most beautiful resort in the world may just be stunning Amanpuri. It sits on Thailand’s Phuket Island, gently nudging out into the Andaman Sea. Imagine sitting under a sala , one of the lovely teak pavilions that overlook the beach. Every suite has one, along with a nanny and every creature comfort imaginable, except for lots of other people.

PUERTO RICO – Romantics seeking pre or post cruise serenity can take refuge in one of thirty Mediterranean-style suites at the Horned Dorset Hotel on the beach side of Mona Straits in western Puerto Rico. Far from the boisterous nightlife of San Juan. Rates range from $280 to $800 per night and include transfers from the airport. The exquisite dining room makes it unnecessary to stray far from the property. The secluded beach and freshwater pool add to the comfort level. This is a place for long beach walks, deep-sea fishing, trips into the rainforest, or a go-around with Dominick Dunne’s latest book.

PUERTO VALLARTA – Our big resort of choice in PV is Marriott’s Casa Magna Resort, a comfortable, modern full-service resort with a wonderful swimming pool that appears to lap up against the ocean. Dolphins comment on the bathing suits by the pool as they frolic just offshore.

ROME – The true gastronomic capital of Italy is not Rome or Florence. It is Bologna, a city of enduring charms that has somehow remained off the beaten track for American visitors. Bologna is called "The Stomach" of Italy, an accolade that is based on the Bolognese fascination of all things culinary. The best chefs in Italy are said to practice their skills along the side streets in Bologna at small trattorias. That is perhaps the reason that Dal Bolegnese has remained so popular over the years, a two dining-room institution in Rome that overlooks the stylish Piazza del Populo. Reservations are essential for lunch or dinner. Try the green lasagna or several selections from the steam cart featuring boiled hams and beef. This is not a tourist spot – it is a place where government officials and Italian celebrities go for fine food. (39-6-361-1426)

ST. BART'S – In the Caribbean, the best single piece of advice is "avoid the cruise ship islands and follow the French". That leads us to St. Barts. This French island with only 5,000 inhabitants has managed to maintain its dignity despite the fact that tourists can outnumber locals by twenty to one during the "season". Truly excellent food, lovely, charming accommodations, the availability of privacy, and twenty--two beaches, most of them white sand with palm trees, are the lures. Everyone gathers at Le Select in Gustavia for afternoon drinks and midday hamburgers, but the really pretty people are spending a fortune on seafood at Lafayette on Grand Cul de Sac beach. Those in the know head out to the chic Le Toiny Hotel for Sunday brunch. And here is our monthly St. Bart’s "How Much Can You Take Off" Update. Beach nudism can result in a 500 Franc fine – but going topless is far less than a misdemeanor.

ST. LUCIA – Cruise ship passengers stepping off the gangway in Castries might well wonder what all the fuss is about. To discover the charms of St. Luica you have to stay a few nights under the gaze of the Piton Mountains. The place to do that is the Jalousie Plantation where the 100 or so cottages come equipped with private plunge pools. There is a great house with a restaurant that combines English service and French island ingenuity. Most of the entrees involve fish caught from waters that lap up against the beach,

This is a place to play backgammon while peering off at the mountain peaks. It is a place where hiking and meandering are always rewarding. This is one of those newfound haunts of the rich and famous that is available to those who are neither. Rates begin under $500 per night.

ST. MARTIN – For those seeking easy serenity with the accessibility of casinos and fine dining, we find ourselves recommending La Samanna, a 78-room enclave of perfect beach, fine service, and a genteel air of informality. Our recent inspection reinforced our feeling that this is a nice enclave in which to relax with the joys of the French West Indies just around the bend. You can cross into another country, Dutch St. Maarten, without the need to deal with customs. La Samanna restaurant features contemporary French cuisine in a casual setting that overlooks the beach. We recommend the full American meal plan at $95 per person. The view from the restaurant is absolutely awesome. The swimming pool is tres inviting. There is nightlife on the French side but the casinos are all on the Dutch side due to a quirk of jurisprudence. There is an archaic but enforced French law that requires that all casino sites have fresh spring water. This is because casinos were, in their original form, houses of ill repute and the fresh spring water was thought to be a health precaution. That’s why the French side has no casinos – all the fresh water springs happen to be on the Dutch side of the island.

TURKS AND CAICOS – Up to now, these quiet islands, with excellent snorkeling and constant sunshine had little to make our "Recommended" list with the exception of a family-oriented Club Med Resort. Now, owner Christina Ong has launched Parrot Cay, a truly beautiful white stone getaway that features a spa program that emphasis the holistic approach. Meditation is helped by the fact that Parrot Cay is on a 1,000+ acre private island. All of the 56 rooms overlook the water.

WYOMING – The lovely, and quiet, secluded Triple Creek Ranch is tucked away in the Bitterroot Mountains of Wyoming. We know how to get there. They have a four-night package that is ideal for those who would like to learn fly-fishing. Priced at $3,250 per couple, the package includes accommodations in a luxury cabin, all meals, beverages, and on-ranch activities, as well as two days of fly fishing instruction and a half-day float/fishing trip on the Bitterroot River.

PRACTICAL ADVICE FOR THE TRAVELER

CHARTER FLIGHTS TO MEXICO AND JAMAICA – The snowstorm that hit the Chicago area during the New Year period, wrecked more than one vacation. Hundreds of area travelers were stranded in Mexico and Jamaica because chartered aircraft scheduled to bring them back home from vacation could not fly into O’Hare. Travelers should be aware that booking a charter flight program with a tour wholesaler such as Apple Vacations, the Midwest’s largest might present several unique problems during weather emergencies. Scheduled airlines will not accept charter tickets. Travelers booked on an Apple Vacation were completely dependent on Apple to find, contract, and schedule additional charter flights two or three days after the storm hit. In the meanwhile, travelers had to fend for themselves. They had to arrange their own hotel rooms and pay all out-of-pocket expenses. There were reports that some hotels were requiring that guests, seeking to stay extra nights because they couldn’t get home, were required to check-out of their rooms each day and then "stand by" to see if they could be accommodated for an extra night. Think twice about signing up for charter programs between the 20th of November and the 15th of March.

PROTECTING YOUR CAMERA EQUIPMENT – Some specific advice from experts:

• If you are planning on photographing animals in Africa, try to equip your camera with a 70-210 mm zoom lens. This will help you avoid the hassle of changing lenses during a shoot. Don’t fool around with a tripod unless you’re really good – you probably won’t have adequate time to set it up properly. Remember that the guides will tend to get you close enough to the wildlife so a 210 lens will be more than adequate.
• Make certain that a sky filter or haze is attached to your lens to protect it from dust kicked up by four-wheel drive vehicles.
• Bring two extra batteries for each of your cameras. You simply won’t find them anywhere but the world’s largest cities.
• Definitely buy a lead-free storage bag for your film if you are going to be taking any serious photographs. The signs on those x-ray machines lie – the machines can damage your film, particularly film that is 400 ASA. Many countries still use the older x-ray machines that do damage even low-speed film. Several countries, including England and Israel may refuse to hand inspect your film. In these situations, the lead-free bag is important.

TRAVEL INSURANCE – The latest wrinkle in the very competitive travel insurance field is the extension of the waiver that applies to "Pre-Existing Medical Conditions". Make certain that you get a policy that gives you two weeks from the time you book your trip to earn the waiver for "under treatment" medical conditions. How do you find out if you have a good travel insurance policy? We think the best clue is the amount of emergency evacuation coverage. We like to see at least $50,000 of coverage. Currently, most cruise insurance plans and private travel insurance plans charge between 5 ½ - 6% of the total trip cost. Look for our complete guide to travel insurance in an upcoming issue of The Travel Report.

THE EURO – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW NOW – The Euro is official. Eleven European nations are now handling credit card payments and travelers checks in the new currency. Every major country in the world now has a "Euro rate", the amount of Euros that will be paid for one unit of the local currency. In the U.S., the benchmark rate at presstime was 1.20 Euros to the dollar. That means that if you get more than 1 and one-fifth Euro for a dollar, the dollar is strong. England, Switzerland, and Greece are not among the eleven nations who have signed on tot he Euro. But given the lack of problems with the adoption of the new currency earlier this year, it is expected that they may soon join. Each of the eleven, France, Germany, Italy, Ireland, Austria Belgium, Finland, Luxembourg (the country you visit to use the restroom), Portugal, Spain, and the Netherlands is going to be using and accepting its own currency, along with the Euro, until January 1st 2002. After that date, only the Euro will be legal tender is each of these countries. It might be wise to collect some of the crisper bills on your next European trip. At the Millennium 3000 Millennium party, they will be collector’s items.

AVERAGE FLYING TIMES FROM O’HARE – We thought it might be helpful to list actual flying times to a number of worldwide destinations using non-stop service from O’Hare. Several of these airline estimates include built in "delay" time. Estimates are based on normal head and tail winds: